Stockholm : Approaches & Marinas

There are basically three ways of getting to Stockholm by boat.

Most of the usual routes converge on Vaxholm, a strategic gateway about five miles east of the city. There are a number of routes to get to Vaxholm, of which the main ferry route, from Soderarm in the north, is probably the least interesting. We think the best route is a secondary route which weaves its way in from Finhamn in the central archipelago.

The stretch from Vaxholm to the city is shared with many ferries and pleasure boats, and can be hectic. The approach is also a little industrial, but its wide and well bouyed.

A far nicer route, in our opinion, is to turn left at Dalaro, and sail up Saltsjobaden to the tiny little cut of Baggensstäket. This short, narrow and shallow cut leads ultimately to Skurusundet, a stunning gorge with sheer sides hundreds of feet high. You emerge less than a mile from the city harbour. I wouldnt want to take this route on a busy saturday morning, but its by far the most scenic.

The last route is the back door via the Sodertalie Canal, and Lake Mälaren. This is excellent if you dont fancy the usually bouncy trip round Landsort, and because there is little industry you get a wonderfully peaceful and pretty entrance to Stockholm, with the forest groeing almost up to the city itself. To get to the archipelago however, you have to go out through four lifting bridges and a lock.


Marinas

The main guest harbour in Stockholm is Wasahamnen, on the island of Djurgärden, right next to the Wasa museum, and a 20 minute walk to the main shops. The marina is often busy, and is expensive, at over £20 a night. There are also relatively few moorings over 3.8 meters wide, with the best bet being a row of stern bouys by the far wall.

If you dont fancy Wasahamnen, or it's full, the next bet is Navishamnen, a little further round Djurgärden, but being rather open, it's subject to wash from passing boats (and there a lot of them).

There are no formal guest harbours in Mälaren (apart from Slagsta, about 10 miles out of the city), but Pampas Marina in Solna can often be prevailed upon to supply a berth for a few days if rung in advance. Pampas is about a 30 minute (pleasant) walk into the city along the shore of Kungsholmen, or there is a tube station (Västra Skogen) about 400 yards walk from the marina (but all uphill!). There is a small supermarket and cash machine next to the tube station.


The best chart shop is Stockholm is Nautiska Förlaget, just by Slussen, at the southern end of Gamla Stan. They stock just about everything, even (if you must) BA charts. You can get a ferry from the Tivoli next to the marina, direct to Slussen.

For chandlers and boat bits, there is a Watski in Kommendörsgatan, just behind Ostermalmstorg, about a 15 minute walk from Wasahamnen. There are two major discount chandlers in the city, but both in the sticks. One is north and one is south of the city, both just off the E4 motorway. Erlandsons Brygge is packed to the gills with bits of all description, and is in a warehouse in Solna, near Eriksdal station (you need the commuter train from Central Station for this, not the tube). The other is Sea Sea, in Segeltorp.

If staying at Washamnen, although there are a number of resturants at the Tivoli next door, there is only a small corner shop for provisions. The best bet for provisions is to get the Tram/Bus to Norrmalmstorg, and shop in the supermarkets in the basement of NK or Åhlens. An alternative which we favour, is to get the same ferry to Slussen, and just behind Nautiska Förlaget is the worlds smallest Coop/Konsum, filled to the rafters with decent stuff.